What a week it has been!
I write from the southernmost part of the Indonesian island of Sumatra but we have been through Malaysia, as well as Sumatra, at breakneck speed in one week!!
Malaysia seems just a blur now. e.g. We only managed to have 3 hours at the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur. Still it was very impressive and whilst we did not manage to get to the observation bridge we had a great time shopping in the ultramodern shopping mall at its base.
So far Indonesia has been something very different! The roads are bumpy and unmade in lots of places and I was expecting to see huge forests, but the deforestation has been tremendous. The first 3 days of our travels have been through miles and miles of plantations of Palm Oil trees. There also seems to be loads of motorbikes on lorries making their way somewhere, but I don't know where. Can any one tell me as there are thousands of them!!?
Days on the bus have been long here with travel times of between 12 to 14 hours every day. Boredom is tending to creep back in again, so the crosswords and games are doing the rounds.
Some people have also decided to leave the bus and catch up later. Some are in Kuala Lumpur. Others are in Singapore whilst the party animals have gone to Bali to await our arrival in a weeks time. They knew this stage of the journey would be hard so they have taken another option!!
One highlight of the week was the crossing of the Equator. We duly left the bus for photos at the sign that simply read Equator. It was great for those of us who have not been so south before.
So we have been this week:
22nd July we left Koh Samui for Hat Yai.
23rd July we entered Malaysia and stayed in Penang.
24th To Malacca
25th To Indonesia and Pekanbaru
26th To Jambi
27th To Lahat
28th To Bandar Lampung
I need some dinner now so till next time BYE!
Monday, 28 July 2008
Wednesday, 23 July 2008
Back to Thailand
Since the last blog I have been reflecting about the experience in Myanmar. Thailand is so modern and up to date, yet the country next door has so much need. Words cannot describe the difference and it brings home to me the need for a government who cares for its people.
Since coming to Thailand the group has divided and some have chosen to do their own thing avoiding Myanmar. We are more or less back together now and have spent time sharing our experiences.
Our first night on Koh Samui (18th) there was a full moon party on Ko Pha Ngan. There was also a torrential storm during the evening which put some of us off going - including me. The following morning I discovered that it was "a good night" but there were some mishaps! One of the group was robbed, another lost 1000 Bhat. One of the group fell of the jetty into the briny whilst trying to save their bucket of gin. Yet another ended up in hospital with a foot injury! Loads had hangovers but the music was reportedly wonderful.
Whilst the hotel was quite with the sound of hush from recovering party mongers....I spent the next day with 3 others hiring a jeep. We were told to put in 300 Bhat of petrol and that would be enough. We managed to see some impressive waterfalls and drive round the island before the jeep broke down on the way to an evening meal. I had to get a taxi home and then entered into debate with the hire company about compensation for the taxi and petrol used. They were very good and handed over all I asked for! We got the jeep for nothing! So result!
Today (22nd) we travelled to Hatyai Songkla which is in the very south of Thailand. We go to Malaysia tomorrow. Tonight was a meal with friends as a local group sang John Denver’s well known song "Im aleavin osa jeet Stain". Wonderful, it kept us amused.
Since coming to Thailand the group has divided and some have chosen to do their own thing avoiding Myanmar. We are more or less back together now and have spent time sharing our experiences.
Our first night on Koh Samui (18th) there was a full moon party on Ko Pha Ngan. There was also a torrential storm during the evening which put some of us off going - including me. The following morning I discovered that it was "a good night" but there were some mishaps! One of the group was robbed, another lost 1000 Bhat. One of the group fell of the jetty into the briny whilst trying to save their bucket of gin. Yet another ended up in hospital with a foot injury! Loads had hangovers but the music was reportedly wonderful.
Whilst the hotel was quite with the sound of hush from recovering party mongers....I spent the next day with 3 others hiring a jeep. We were told to put in 300 Bhat of petrol and that would be enough. We managed to see some impressive waterfalls and drive round the island before the jeep broke down on the way to an evening meal. I had to get a taxi home and then entered into debate with the hire company about compensation for the taxi and petrol used. They were very good and handed over all I asked for! We got the jeep for nothing! So result!
Today (22nd) we travelled to Hatyai Songkla which is in the very south of Thailand. We go to Malaysia tomorrow. Tonight was a meal with friends as a local group sang John Denver’s well known song "Im aleavin osa jeet Stain". Wonderful, it kept us amused.
Myanmar "the Happy Room"
I have made it through Myanmar!
I never really thought that this part of the trip would happen. The recent typhoon on top of the political situation in the country meant I was not really expecting to have the chance to visit. I also had the personal decision to make about going to the country and possibly getting in the way of any aid work that might be going on there.
However, we did go and I am so glad we did.
The title for this blog comes from our local guide in Myanmar called Min who would describe a toilet as a "Happy room". He was great and told us so much about the places we visited. He really loves his country.
The first stop at Inle Lake (13th) introduced us to those people in Myanmar who live quite literally 'on the water'. Going for an early morning boat ride across the lake we saw children going to school by boat, large vessels carrying vegetables to the markets and fishermen using their legs in order to paddle boats in a very peculiar way. There were also floating gardens which seemed to cover miles of water, all floating on weed and bamboo and supporting loads of tomatoes and peppers! The only noise was the occasional motor boat going by. Everything else was paddle power!
Our visit to Bagan (14th) introduced us to what I would consider to be one of the wonders of the world. Over a plain there were 4,400 temples and stupas. We were told that at one time there were over 50,000 stupas here. All the stupas pointed upward and you just kept bumping into them. At sunset the sight was breathtaking. Golden and red and brown and white spires glowing in the reflective beauty of the sun.
At Pyay (16th) I managed to find a Baptist church and walked into a prayer meeting at 7.00 in the morning. I joined them and was given a lovely welcome.
We eventually arrived in Yangon (17th) and drove passed the office of the democracy movement. No lights on but a small sign defiantly stating its purpose. This was just around the corner from our hotel. The hotel also overlooked the Shwedagon Temple which we later visited. The temple was the site of the freedom riots last year and there was a large police presence as we entered. Strange going to a place of worship that was so well protected by the police and army!!
We also discovered that Myanmar has now got a new capital. Instead of Yangon it is Naypyidaw. This is nearer to China and away from any troublesome Buddhist temples! This change only happened a month ago and the old government buildings are now left empty. The old university is also standing empty, this was a place of student riots in the past. Because of this the government closed the Uni and moved it to the villages. We saw the old army headquarters which was directly opposite the city zoo. The army HQ had 3 fences around it, the zoo had only one! Who do you think are the most dangerous?
This leads me to comment on the storm damage of the recent Typhoon. There was a lot of it in Yangon which was the northern most part of the storm. We were not allowed to travel anywhere near the area of real need. We did however see a row of Red Cross lorries waiting outside the Red Cross HQ. They looked loaded up and ready to go.
As we left Yangon we also organised a collection amongst ourselves which we gave to local sources. We also raided our first aid kits and backpacks for anything that might be useful to leave behind. These things were again left with a local person who assured us that it would get to the points of need quickly.
The day we arrived in Yangon we visited the Taukkyan War Cemetery. In this cemetery are the remains of 27,000 soldiers, mainly allied forces from the Second World War. Within 2 minutes of being there I discovered 2 VC's and hundreds of soldiers from Welsh and Yorkshire regiments - very touching for me as these are the 2 places of the UK that touch my heart. Many died in November 1944 fighting for Freedom. It seems to me that in Myanmar the fight still goes on.
People we met who were brave enough, told us how fed up with their government they were. But most are afraid to say anything.
There is so much poverty in this country that is also rich in natural resources.
We saw very expensive houses in Yangon which are owned by Government people. They were surrounded by razor wire! In contrast ordinary people were scratching a living and many complained that since the typhoon things were worse because there "are no visitors to purchase our goods". We were told that at the present time only 50 tourists a day are entering Myanmar! We were a part of that statistic.
Now in Thailand again (18th) there is such a lot to think about. The contrast is so big with Myanmar which is struggling to become a happier place for all its people.
I never really thought that this part of the trip would happen. The recent typhoon on top of the political situation in the country meant I was not really expecting to have the chance to visit. I also had the personal decision to make about going to the country and possibly getting in the way of any aid work that might be going on there.
However, we did go and I am so glad we did.
The title for this blog comes from our local guide in Myanmar called Min who would describe a toilet as a "Happy room". He was great and told us so much about the places we visited. He really loves his country.
The first stop at Inle Lake (13th) introduced us to those people in Myanmar who live quite literally 'on the water'. Going for an early morning boat ride across the lake we saw children going to school by boat, large vessels carrying vegetables to the markets and fishermen using their legs in order to paddle boats in a very peculiar way. There were also floating gardens which seemed to cover miles of water, all floating on weed and bamboo and supporting loads of tomatoes and peppers! The only noise was the occasional motor boat going by. Everything else was paddle power!
Our visit to Bagan (14th) introduced us to what I would consider to be one of the wonders of the world. Over a plain there were 4,400 temples and stupas. We were told that at one time there were over 50,000 stupas here. All the stupas pointed upward and you just kept bumping into them. At sunset the sight was breathtaking. Golden and red and brown and white spires glowing in the reflective beauty of the sun.
At Pyay (16th) I managed to find a Baptist church and walked into a prayer meeting at 7.00 in the morning. I joined them and was given a lovely welcome.
We eventually arrived in Yangon (17th) and drove passed the office of the democracy movement. No lights on but a small sign defiantly stating its purpose. This was just around the corner from our hotel. The hotel also overlooked the Shwedagon Temple which we later visited. The temple was the site of the freedom riots last year and there was a large police presence as we entered. Strange going to a place of worship that was so well protected by the police and army!!
We also discovered that Myanmar has now got a new capital. Instead of Yangon it is Naypyidaw. This is nearer to China and away from any troublesome Buddhist temples! This change only happened a month ago and the old government buildings are now left empty. The old university is also standing empty, this was a place of student riots in the past. Because of this the government closed the Uni and moved it to the villages. We saw the old army headquarters which was directly opposite the city zoo. The army HQ had 3 fences around it, the zoo had only one! Who do you think are the most dangerous?
This leads me to comment on the storm damage of the recent Typhoon. There was a lot of it in Yangon which was the northern most part of the storm. We were not allowed to travel anywhere near the area of real need. We did however see a row of Red Cross lorries waiting outside the Red Cross HQ. They looked loaded up and ready to go.
As we left Yangon we also organised a collection amongst ourselves which we gave to local sources. We also raided our first aid kits and backpacks for anything that might be useful to leave behind. These things were again left with a local person who assured us that it would get to the points of need quickly.
The day we arrived in Yangon we visited the Taukkyan War Cemetery. In this cemetery are the remains of 27,000 soldiers, mainly allied forces from the Second World War. Within 2 minutes of being there I discovered 2 VC's and hundreds of soldiers from Welsh and Yorkshire regiments - very touching for me as these are the 2 places of the UK that touch my heart. Many died in November 1944 fighting for Freedom. It seems to me that in Myanmar the fight still goes on.
People we met who were brave enough, told us how fed up with their government they were. But most are afraid to say anything.
There is so much poverty in this country that is also rich in natural resources.
We saw very expensive houses in Yangon which are owned by Government people. They were surrounded by razor wire! In contrast ordinary people were scratching a living and many complained that since the typhoon things were worse because there "are no visitors to purchase our goods". We were told that at the present time only 50 tourists a day are entering Myanmar! We were a part of that statistic.
Now in Thailand again (18th) there is such a lot to think about. The contrast is so big with Myanmar which is struggling to become a happier place for all its people.
Monday, 21 July 2008
Sunday, 13 July 2008
Namaste
The way of greeting people in Nepal is to put your hands in the praying position and to say 'Namaste". Nepal has given us all a great bit of Namaste! The welcome has been amazing and the whole experience one not to be missed. Since my last blog of a few days ago I realised that one or two items were not mentioned and really should have been. One was the waterfall shower we used during our 2 days rafting. It was one of those Hollywood moments that you never expect to happen in reality. Claire especially enjoyed this and I think she would have stayed there for ever! Another high was the rafting experience and seeing Marshall fall in the water a few times - it certainly cooled him down! Having meals prepared for us at the side of the river was also a high spot. Such good food and then we washed the dishes in the river for next time!
Coming back to Calcutta India (or Kolkata as it is now known) was a reality check though, AWFUL HOTEL! Nepal has many problems to face, e.g. I was severely challenged by seeing so many children sniffing glue openly in the streets. There were a few occasions when these kids were also begging and instead of giving money I gave a bottle of pop or a packet of biscuits or crisps, They ran away like animals in order to feed (I would love to do something to help these kids). But Calcutta was indescribable, the poverty, the smell, smoke, noise and garbage... At 7am I went for a 10 minute walk and there were people sleeping everywhere. It needs to be experienced to believe. Again a great challenge and I would not know where to begin!
I was glad to get to Bangkok! Clean hotels and great food again! A late night party with a mix of us middle aged and younger ones which led to too many drinks being had! (I hope I did not disgrace myself but I will never drink Tequila again!). I was told buy Irish Laura that "I needed to just learn how to drink it" – lick salt first, then drink, then bite the lime. Never again.
During the night I did also manage to have an interesting chat with Dan about faith. We talked about Stephen Hawking and lots more. I think we bored those around us but I really enjoyed it. I love it when people are not afraid to talk about faith issues. They challenge me and keep me asking questions about so many things, poverty and suffering in particular.
Now (11th) I am in Chiang Mai. Only 24 of us have come. We have a new Oz Bus which is so clean and smart. Later today we travel to see some Buddhist temples and countryside. Then to the Myanmar border. I have decided to go to Myanmar as I don't think not going will do any good. Perhaps the more people that go the better for the people of that country.
Best wishes to all.
Coming back to Calcutta India (or Kolkata as it is now known) was a reality check though, AWFUL HOTEL! Nepal has many problems to face, e.g. I was severely challenged by seeing so many children sniffing glue openly in the streets. There were a few occasions when these kids were also begging and instead of giving money I gave a bottle of pop or a packet of biscuits or crisps, They ran away like animals in order to feed (I would love to do something to help these kids). But Calcutta was indescribable, the poverty, the smell, smoke, noise and garbage... At 7am I went for a 10 minute walk and there were people sleeping everywhere. It needs to be experienced to believe. Again a great challenge and I would not know where to begin!
I was glad to get to Bangkok! Clean hotels and great food again! A late night party with a mix of us middle aged and younger ones which led to too many drinks being had! (I hope I did not disgrace myself but I will never drink Tequila again!). I was told buy Irish Laura that "I needed to just learn how to drink it" – lick salt first, then drink, then bite the lime. Never again.
During the night I did also manage to have an interesting chat with Dan about faith. We talked about Stephen Hawking and lots more. I think we bored those around us but I really enjoyed it. I love it when people are not afraid to talk about faith issues. They challenge me and keep me asking questions about so many things, poverty and suffering in particular.
Now (11th) I am in Chiang Mai. Only 24 of us have come. We have a new Oz Bus which is so clean and smart. Later today we travel to see some Buddhist temples and countryside. Then to the Myanmar border. I have decided to go to Myanmar as I don't think not going will do any good. Perhaps the more people that go the better for the people of that country.
Best wishes to all.
Tuesday, 8 July 2008
Viva Nepal
In Kathmandu we encounter Hindu and Buddhist worship in all its colour and splendour, there are temples and monasteries galore. Many in our group were fascinated by those temples celebrating the Karma Sutra! (I didn't look).
Hindus also believe Kathmandu is the home of Kumari, a living goddess. We saw her and it caused a great deal of discussion amongst group members. Apparently the Hindu believes that the Kumari is an incarnation of one of the gods. She is chosen by holy men to be the Kumari at about the age of 4, and she then retains this position until she starts menstruation when a new Kumari is chosen.
For me and 5 others who stayed in Kathmandu white water rafting in the Trishuli, Marshyangdiand Kali Gandaki rivers was the order for the next 2 days (4th/5th). We had great meals produced on the river bank and in the home of the one of the locals that put anything organised by Ozbus to shame - that would not be hard from my experience.
Then to Pokhara (5th) for 2 days trekking (Sarankot Hill, and Peace Pagoda via the Devi Falls) in the hot sticky weather. The hotel has been good, the food great and cheap, and the walking so spectacular. We awoke today to see from our bedrooms the tops of snow capped mountains in the Annapurnas.
Others have also done their own thing and those on the bus have had to face travelling back to India on a minibus as the big bus has broken down!! Not surprising given the roads we have travelled, the bus has been through a lot!!
Tomorrow (8th) the six of us return to Kathmandu, then Calcutta on Wednesday for one night before going to Bangkok! The border between India and Mayanmar is closed so we knew that we needed to fly for this short part of the journey.
I already know I want to come back to Nepal.
Hindus also believe Kathmandu is the home of Kumari, a living goddess. We saw her and it caused a great deal of discussion amongst group members. Apparently the Hindu believes that the Kumari is an incarnation of one of the gods. She is chosen by holy men to be the Kumari at about the age of 4, and she then retains this position until she starts menstruation when a new Kumari is chosen.
For me and 5 others who stayed in Kathmandu white water rafting in the Trishuli, Marshyangdiand Kali Gandaki rivers was the order for the next 2 days (4th/5th). We had great meals produced on the river bank and in the home of the one of the locals that put anything organised by Ozbus to shame - that would not be hard from my experience.
Then to Pokhara (5th) for 2 days trekking (Sarankot Hill, and Peace Pagoda via the Devi Falls) in the hot sticky weather. The hotel has been good, the food great and cheap, and the walking so spectacular. We awoke today to see from our bedrooms the tops of snow capped mountains in the Annapurnas.
Others have also done their own thing and those on the bus have had to face travelling back to India on a minibus as the big bus has broken down!! Not surprising given the roads we have travelled, the bus has been through a lot!!
Tomorrow (8th) the six of us return to Kathmandu, then Calcutta on Wednesday for one night before going to Bangkok! The border between India and Mayanmar is closed so we knew that we needed to fly for this short part of the journey.
I already know I want to come back to Nepal.
Friday, 4 July 2008
Nepal redeems all!
Varanasi was a place of culture and religion that lifted our view of India. Most of us managed to visit the various Ghats dedicated to the Hindu gods. We also enjoyed a few trips up the Ganges to observe the funeral pyres - these are continuous (24/7)!!
We were all told different things about the reason why some Hindu's are not cremated. I was told that babies, deaths from cobra bites, Holy Men, homosexuals and lepers were not cremated as cremation is passage to heaven for the Hindu and all these categories need to be reincarnated to reach perfection for heaven. Cremation is the only way to heaven.
I also asked if any people got sick from washing in the river and drinking it. The guide said that the 'Ganga' was his mother and that his mother would do nothing to hurt him or other Hindus. We observed a huge number of cremations and also dead bodies and dead cows and dogs floating down the river. Despite all this it was a moving experience.
Whilst here another trip going to Australia from London pulled in. It was a large lorry with a converted container for people to travel in. They had started their journey in March and don't get to Aussie till November!! I am truly glad not to be on that one. I also met a girl from York on that trip.
From Varanasi we went for a stop over in Gorakhpur (1st July). We spent ages looking for western style restaurants but the nearest we found was "Choudreys" an Indian style MacDonald’s. The food was fine. But the town...best to say nowt!
During all this time many, including me, kept having stomach problems so we have needed to eat wisely and only small amounts. We are nearly all recovered now with only one of us having to go ahead to Thailand in order to recover!!
Yesterday (2nd) we travelled to Kathmandu in Nepal, another trek! We left at 6am and arrived here at 10.30pm.!! The crossing from India was pretty straight forward and the difference when we crossed the border very noticeable - more order and tidiness etc.
This morning we awoke to a great breakfast which included fried potatoes! Then off for a flight around Everest which was another WOW! Already Nepal is proving to be amazing! We have also got great cafes and bars here with great menus so what else do we need!!??
As things have been so hectic and illness so rife many of us are taking the opportunity to stay longer in Nepal and then catch up with the OzBus in either Calcutta or Bangkok. In fact half of us are staying. I have decided to have two days white water rafting then going for 3 nights to Pokhara. The first day in Pokhara will be a trek, then a day to chill out and see the town. We will return to Kathmandu on the 8th to fly to Calcutta on the 9th.
Someone has asked about the things we do to pass time on the bus. Well we do have ‘Fact of the Day'. We try to find an interesting fact to share and also decide who might like to sponsor the fact, e.g. did you know that the people of Ireland send more text messages per head of population than any other country in the world?
Just thought I should also mention some of the painful things people do here in Kathmandu, e.g. Jenny and Kate had their tongue pierced. Jenny said it was done down a dirty backstreet for only seven quid! I think it looks good but none of my daughters had better get it done! I think they did this after serious thought and not just after the boredom of the trip yesterday.
I now need to get my kit ready for the next week so perhaps no blog for a while! Unless we find some internet in Pokhara.
We were all told different things about the reason why some Hindu's are not cremated. I was told that babies, deaths from cobra bites, Holy Men, homosexuals and lepers were not cremated as cremation is passage to heaven for the Hindu and all these categories need to be reincarnated to reach perfection for heaven. Cremation is the only way to heaven.
I also asked if any people got sick from washing in the river and drinking it. The guide said that the 'Ganga' was his mother and that his mother would do nothing to hurt him or other Hindus. We observed a huge number of cremations and also dead bodies and dead cows and dogs floating down the river. Despite all this it was a moving experience.
Whilst here another trip going to Australia from London pulled in. It was a large lorry with a converted container for people to travel in. They had started their journey in March and don't get to Aussie till November!! I am truly glad not to be on that one. I also met a girl from York on that trip.
From Varanasi we went for a stop over in Gorakhpur (1st July). We spent ages looking for western style restaurants but the nearest we found was "Choudreys" an Indian style MacDonald’s. The food was fine. But the town...best to say nowt!
During all this time many, including me, kept having stomach problems so we have needed to eat wisely and only small amounts. We are nearly all recovered now with only one of us having to go ahead to Thailand in order to recover!!
Yesterday (2nd) we travelled to Kathmandu in Nepal, another trek! We left at 6am and arrived here at 10.30pm.!! The crossing from India was pretty straight forward and the difference when we crossed the border very noticeable - more order and tidiness etc.
This morning we awoke to a great breakfast which included fried potatoes! Then off for a flight around Everest which was another WOW! Already Nepal is proving to be amazing! We have also got great cafes and bars here with great menus so what else do we need!!??
As things have been so hectic and illness so rife many of us are taking the opportunity to stay longer in Nepal and then catch up with the OzBus in either Calcutta or Bangkok. In fact half of us are staying. I have decided to have two days white water rafting then going for 3 nights to Pokhara. The first day in Pokhara will be a trek, then a day to chill out and see the town. We will return to Kathmandu on the 8th to fly to Calcutta on the 9th.
Someone has asked about the things we do to pass time on the bus. Well we do have ‘Fact of the Day'. We try to find an interesting fact to share and also decide who might like to sponsor the fact, e.g. did you know that the people of Ireland send more text messages per head of population than any other country in the world?
Just thought I should also mention some of the painful things people do here in Kathmandu, e.g. Jenny and Kate had their tongue pierced. Jenny said it was done down a dirty backstreet for only seven quid! I think it looks good but none of my daughters had better get it done! I think they did this after serious thought and not just after the boredom of the trip yesterday.
I now need to get my kit ready for the next week so perhaps no blog for a while! Unless we find some internet in Pokhara.
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